pix and text for 1/2 shafting!

[RGR]

first the text:

IM convo about TB half-shafting mods!

White95v6: now how do you get 15% more flow out of the tb?
rtgreene1: Remove the front 1/2 of the shaft
White95v6: i will be up all night writing this down.
rtgreene1: old Carb porting trick :-)
White95v6: explain the shaft
White95v6: i haven't been into a tb yet
White95v6: i know you have a plate in there
rtgreene1: it is round, and a slot is in the middle for the butterfly
White95v6: just like a carb
rtgreene1: U remove the butterfly, (2 screws) and then the TPS
rtgreene1: yup, like carb
White95v6: what part do i take out
rtgreene1: basically all of it
White95v6: ok then what
rtgreene1: (it is off the car already)
rtgreene1: OK?
rtgreene1: hehee
White95v6: lol
rtgreene1: it is round, and a slot is in the middle for the butterfly
White95v6: just like a carb
rtgreene1: U remove the butterfly, (2 screws) and then the TPS
rtgreene1: yup, like carb
rtgreene1: then U pull the shaft out
rtgreene1: once it is out
rtgreene1: U can hacksaw the FRONT half of the shaft off
White95v6: ok pull shaft out
rtgreene1: U gotta keep the back, it has the threaded holes
rtgreene1: U cut off the FRONT
rtgreene1: got it?
rtgreene1: FRONT
White95v6: the part the faces the intake tube
White95v6: right?
White95v6: ok i know what you mean the front!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
rtgreene1: Haha!
now then U have to file the cuts smooth
White95v6: ok
White95v6: i should be buying the cai off blake in july and i can't wait for it
rtgreene1: U can re-use the same screws, but I like flat heads, they would have to have the plate countersunk though...
White95v6: that shoudl help with air flow to the tb
rtgreene1: STAY ON THE TB ITSELF!!! :-)
rtgreene1: hehee
rtgreene1: the CAI will help, true
rtgreene1: but this is better
rtgreene1: both will rule!
rtgreene1: OK, back to the TB
White95v6: yea but the cai looks good
rtgreene1: yup
White95v6: yea
rtgreene1: I also loc-tite the screws when I put them back in
rtgreene1: and/or (both is best)
White95v6: good idea
rtgreene1: use a centerpunch and peen the back of the screw
rtgreene1: not the head, the part in the shaft
White95v6: man my car will haul ass soon!
White95v6: yea i nkow what you mean
rtgreene1: that and loctite should hold thru anything
rtgreene1: I also grind off ALL extra screw length
rtgreene1: before peening
rtgreene1: and I also polish and smooth the inside of the TB itself (while it is apart)
White95v6: ok
rtgreene1: but do not remove any appreciable amount of material where the butterfly is when it is closed, or U will have a high idle.
rtgreene1: just lightly polish in front of the plate(butterfly) and behind it
rtgreene1: and knock down that "step" in front of the plate too
rtgreene1: back up to speed?
White95v6: yep
rtgreene1: OK, just polish it out and re-assemble it all
White95v6: that should put the tb cfm to over 400 right
rtgreene1: no, but up to ~370CFM
rtgreene1: it has to be bored to 52mm to go over 400 cfm

That's it Boys and Girls! It is exactly the same for ANY TB with a full shaft! (5.0 60mm TB and most aftermarket TB's
are already half-shafted)

***Note: White95v6 claims he has gotten
OVER 400 CFM with 1/2 shafting, fully
smoothing and knife-edging the TB!
LMK if I left anything out, Whitey!

The first pic is a totally stock 99^
60mm TB, full shaft and all.
http://www.mustangmods.com/publish/RGR/stockTBfullshaft.jpg

next is a fully-modded (but not bored out)
TB of the same year. Note how thin the shaft
is now...
http://www.mustangmods.com/publish/RGR/halfshaftfullmod.jpg

and finally, I am showing a 94-98 TB shaft
and the marks (in black) are where U make
the cuts to remove the FRONT HALF.
http://www.mustangmods.com/publish/RGR/wheretocutfrontpartoff.jpg

[ November 21, 2002: Message edited by: RGR ]</p>

[pb_milan]

psst

learn UBB images/smiles/icon_smile.gif

no spaces in the code between the URL and
it's gotta be 1 long code images/smiles/icon_smile.gif

[DiSiX]

Is that my TB!? sweeet!

[need4mospd]

So what are the materials needed for this? Dremel? A couple files? Screwdriver? I'm trying to make sense of this.

[Cavan]

I don't get it, I probably need to look at one in person to get what you're saying. So is there a slot through the middle of the shaft where the plate goes through, and you cut the front half off??

[Jamez]

I'm gonna need more pictures to know whats up.

[RGR]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by DiSiX:
Is that my TB!? sweeet!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

YES

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quoteI don't get it, I probably need to look at one in person to get what you're saying. So is there a slot through the middle of the shaft where the plate goes through, and you cut the front half off??

Yes, Cavan. I use a hacksaw.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote So what are the materials needed for this? Dremel? A couple files? Screwdriver? I'm trying to make sense of this.

Hacksaw
dremel (or die grinder of some sort)
carbide bit (to port inside TB)
flap wheel (to smooth inside TB)
file (to dress cuts on the shaft)
Phillips screwdriver (#2 is prob. best)
center punch (to peen the back of the screws)
small hammer (to hit the center punch images/smiles/icon_smile.gif )
Loc-Tite (for throttle plate screws)

That should do it for tools!
I also grease the shaft O-Rings
before I re-insert the shaft,
just to make sure it operates
smoothly and does not leak air.
I use vaseline images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif

Alternate steps:
I put flat head phillips screws back
in this one, and I had to tap the screw
holes out to 8-32 size. So U need also:

8-32 tap and bit
drill
flat head screws
45* countersink (to make the holes in the
plate beveled, so the screw sits flush)

optional:
***bolt cutter for 8-32
***large (~3/8") drill bit to use as a
countersink. (but this is not quite as good)

I also had to grind down the flat heads a bit,
because I did not have the countersink, and had
to stop short as the drill has a deeper angle
than the countersink and the screw.

[matthewneuharth]

well rgr you got it all. but i have not knife edged the tb yet and it still has the stock screws in it. so i got some more work to do to it. i have been real busy lately. i just got a new job at a mustang shop. i will get back to workinh on it next week i hope.

[RGR]

What was your last CFM reading?
and was it @ 25" water or 28???

[matthewneuharth]

all mt flow #s were @25 inches. and it flowed 430 cfm. remember i told you that the flow benches at school can only pull 25. so that will be what all my flow #s are at.

[RGR]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by matthewneuharth:
all mt flow #s were @25 inches. and it flowed 430 cfm. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

...so we can adjust that by adding 6%

That would make it ~455 CFM!
sweeeeeeeeeettt!
not bad for a theoretical
flow # of 330 CFM!
(calculated w/full shaft)

[RGR]

MORE PIX!!!
Here is one of that "RIDGE"
U want to remove:
http://www.mustangmods.com/publish/RGR/ridge_to_remove.jpg
Make it look like the fully-modded TB images/smiles/icon_smile.gif
(easier said than done?)


Here is a "better" shot of where to cut the
shaft>
http://www.mustangmods.com/publish/RGR/marked_shaft.jpg

U cut it right at the end of the slot,
simple as that. Then take a fine file and
dress the cuts up a little, so the shaft
will easily slide back in the TB bearings.

U could even do this on a 56mm BBK,
I believe they have a thinned-down
shaft front and back, but who needs
both sides anyway? images/smiles/icon_wink.gif

[ November 21, 2002: Message edited by: RGR ]</p>

Would a 99+ v6 see any gains from this??? I don't have any porting done yet,as for breathing mods, I have duals and the C&L.

I thought my TB was big enough already and making it flow more would be a waste. Is this only for the 94-98's?

Also, if it isn't necessary with what i have now,if I do p&p my upper and lower, should I half-shaft the TB too?

[RGR]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2kSilver:
Would a 99+ v6 see any gains from this??? I don't have any porting done yet,as for breathing mods, I have duals and the C&L.

**** Might help with the C&L, but some
have reported NO GAIN even with a 60mm
TB and no P&P. That means the stocker is
not a restriction at the RPM tested. BUT
if U do it now, (and it is a free mod!)
U don't have to do it later! AND it will
not hurt one bit!
****

I thought my TB was big enough already and making it flow more would be a waste. Is this only for the 94-98's?

**** Works for ALL full-shaft TB's, yours
included. The one in the pix is a 99^ TB.
2000 model year actually.
****

Also, if it isn't necessary with what i have now,if I do p&p my upper and lower, should I half-shaft the TB too?

**** I'd do it now actually. Good practice
B4 porting the intakes! I think U might get
a small gain w/the C&L and duals.
****

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

can't hurt, and U know it is done...
I would guess a fully modded 99^
TB would flow close to 600 CFM,
without boring it out and putting in
a bigger plate.

[RGR]

BUMP for Gryphun
images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif

Try this bud!

[RGR]

Bump for MIKE LEWIS!!!

[RGR]

bump for JAMES!

This needs put in tech archives, I get
mail all the time axing "where is it?"

I can work it down to a better form, if
needed.

[Jamez]

Thar she blows, thanks.

[Clemens9]

Bump for Jesus!


Sorry, i just had to do that...

[Electricat]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 2kSilver:

Also, how do I take out the butterfly valve to 1/2shaft? Do I HAVE to take out the TPS sensor? I think I ruined the frigging screws, they are so tight that I stripped the top. What can I do? I was thinking of taking a dremel and grinding a slash in it to use a flathead screwdriver. Any better suggestions?

Yet another question I have is I read somewhere about that screw that could adjust idle by moving the butterfly valve. You dismissed the idea because you said the computer would adjust and the idle would return. I don't understadn how the computer can adjust. What the heck would the computer control to return the idle to normal?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Recutting the slot with a Dremel might work, the way I have gotten them out is with ViceGrips, just clamp onto what is left of the head as tight as you can. They turn easy once you initially break them loose.

About the idle, I have been thinking about that also. I tried turning my idle up a bit using the screw (to help out the alternator a bit w/ my underdrive pulley), but it kept going back down to around 650rpm like it was before. My guess is that the computer opens the IAC less to restrict the amount of airflow back to what it was before I opened up the butterfly a little by turning the screw. You make one passage bigger, the computer makes the other passage smaller, and you're right back where you started. I think the only way to actually change the idle is with a chip.

[matthewneuharth]

yep the ecu changes the postion of the iac. to move your idle back down. and the only way to change your idle is with a chip or reprogram.

[Jamez]

Do the screws on the butterfly just come out or do you have to cut off the ends of em?

[matthewneuharth]

you have to cut the backs of them off. because ford pinched them so they won't fall out. so take die grinder and grind the backs off. and they will come out.

[RGR]

<sings>
"lets all do the BUMP!"

I had my TB out last night and was looking at it.

Are you sure removing that lip is a good idea? It seems to me like it is there to stop air from getting around the endges of the butterfly at idle.

Also, how do I take out the butterfly valve to 1/2shaft? Do I HAVE to take out the TPS sensor? I think I ruined the frigging screws, they are so tight that I stripped the top. What can I do? I was thinking of taking a dremel and grinding a slash in it to use a flathead screwdriver. Any better suggestions?

Yet another question I have is I read somewhere about that screw that could adjust idle by moving the butterfly valve. You dismissed the idea because you said the computer would adjust and the idle would return. I don't understadn how the computer can adjust. What the heck would the computer control to return the idle to normal?

[RGR]

BUMP for Eddie...

This will be in the V6DIYNews
FYI.
I cannot buy a tech archives slot.
Wait! Maybe that would work! images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif

[98TXSilverStang]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RGR:
BUMP for Eddie...

This will be in the V6DIYNews
FYI.
I cannot buy a tech archives slot.
Wait! Maybe that would work! images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks. I have an extra tb from Lucifer that I want to work with.

-Eddie

[RGR]

ttt

[RGR]

top

[tumm37]

what the heck...pics not working for me...

[matthewneuharth]

bump for walter