Windstar Manifold HOW TO

[skatefreak]

Disclaimer: This is how I did my own conversion. There are many things that need to be fabricated so if you don't have the skills or the balls don't try this. Also there where a few things that I wouldn't consider the smartest thing to do to a car but were needed.

Tool List:
Full socket set
Drill + bits
Hole Stepper Bit
Vice or a clamp and table
Wire crimping/cutting tools
die grinder or other cut off tool

Materials List:
Cobra R hood
Manifold w/ isolator bolts
3/8" phenolic spacer
Gasket material (a must)
New upper gaskets (one for a stock upper and all for the windstar manifold)
EGR delete (a must)
Intake tubing (I used a 90 and a 45)
Intake hoses (too many to name)
Vacuum T's
2" wide aluminum plate
1" wide aluminum plate
2 Barbed 3/8" fittings (for remote IAC)
A tap for those fittings (1/4 NPT) maybe different depending on what you pick up
2' wire 3 different colors (for lengthening the TPS)
Various wire connectors

OK start by removing your EGR system. I had to cut the pipe close to the header with a die grinder so I could just put a socket over the end.
Remove the solenoids, pressure sensor, and valve from head. I pulled the wires back and zip tied them to the fuel rail. Then cap off the port on the head.


Next I deleted the PCV system by switching the pcv valve and cap from one side to the other. Them putting a vacuum cap on the driver side and a breather on the PCV valve on the passenger side.

After that was removing the stock upper manifold. This is pretty simple: first remove the air filter and tubing, then the throttle cables, next the vacuum lines, also the connectors for the TPS and IAC, on the coil pack just simply unbolt it, and finally the 8 bolts that hold it down.
NOTE: there are two fasteners on the back holding the wiring harness to the upper plenum.


So now your upper is off and the engine looks sad, I took this opportunity to clean the lower the best I could.

Here comes the fun (and stupid part). Even with a 3/8" spacer I still had big clearance issues with the bypass vent and fuel pressure sensor. I used a 1" ID conduit pipe to bend the vent towards the driver side headlight (pull very slowly and only a little at a time), Then used a flat wide bar and a hammer and hit the fuel rail on the fuel pressure flange twice to move it (this made me very worried). Next you have to remove the dowels for the lower and replace them with ones long enough to go through the 3/8" space and the new upper (mine were too long so I cut them with the die grinder until the fit)




After you get those clearance issues fixed It's pretty simple. Install the spacer with a new gasket under it. Them replace the gaskets on the Windstar manifold and Bolt it on (be careful as this manifold only needs 15lbs of torque to hold it down). I then Fabbed up some brackets to hold the Throttle cables, coil pack, and to remote mount the IAC. The IAC bracket is the only one I will go into detail as you can see the others and figure them out.


On the IAC I made a flange out of 2" aluminum plate from Lowes. Simply use a gasket and trace the pattern on the aluminum. Cut out the (outer) shape using a cut off wheel, hacksaw, whatever you have to cut straight with. then use the inside guidelines to find two places to drill for the barbed fittings. Next tap them and use teflon paste on the fittings.


With the TPS you have to lengthen the wires about a foot. Just some simple 14ga wire and connectors and that was done. Since I remote mounted the IAC I didn't have to lengthen those. I just mounted It with some zipties and was done. There is a vacuum port right behind the original IAC mount so thats perfect for you remote mount manifold side.


My biggest headache was the intake tubing! I bought a 3" 90 degree and wanted to run it to the stock hole in the fender support. That was impossible with what I had. I figured to run it under the frame rail and inside the splash guard.




I went and bought a 3" 45 degree and 2' of 3" coolant hose for O'reilly's and went to work. I made a vacuum port on the tract halfway down for the remote mount IAC. Then made a hole big enough for the MAF in the splash guard. (you must buy a new coolant reservoir)


Almost done! Just get the rest of the vacuum lines on, mount the coil (including the clip), and mount/fab some throttle brackets.

That was pretty much it!

Enjoy

DYNO COMING SOON!!!

[94stangr]

Looks good I am glad there is actually a Howto on this very informative!

[Hiposilverandaway]

Well done. One question, with the IAC place so far away how is your idle? I have done something similar while clearing the stock hood. Be sure to post gains on performance, once tuned.

[KrakDoUtMusTanG]

What are the benefits of doing this swap?

[_J_]

hey new guy, who are you? Welcome to V6P

[flex9999]

I think we have a winner for the best first post award.

[Identity_Crisis]

decent write up but i dont understand why u had to change the overflow bottle i wouldnt mind a copy of that throttle cable mount so i could still run my cruise control

and jst my 2cents i would clean up that wiring to the TPS a lil nicer

but nice write up

[V6Sprout]

defiantely a GREAT FIRST POST well done indeed. Did you try mounting the overflow bottle on the other side of the fan possibly?

[_J_]

Originally Posted by V6Sprout

defiantely a GREAT FIRST POST well done indeed. Did you try mounting the overflow bottle on the other side of the fan possibly?

from the looks of it .. no .. cause there is a ton of space..

x2 very nice first post.. still like to know who is he tho..

[skatefreak]

My name is Michael. I wrote this for the guys over at 3.8mustang and thought I'd share it. I mounted the overflow there was an easier mounting point for the supplied bracket. My idle is perfect! I have a VMP SCT tuner and i adjusted it down actually. It idles great at 700-750rpms. The engine bay has been cleaned up quite a bit, those were taken only seconds after finishing. I have added some clearance pictures to the other thread, when I get some more time I will add them here. I will be going to the dyno soon but here in Tulsa it is raining cats and dogs. Here is a picture of my car.

[_J_]

very cool Michael .. its great to have you on here .. nice job with the write up

[KrakDoUtMusTanG]

Were there any hood clearance issues with this swap? Also, what are the benefits of this windstar intake?

[skatefreak]

I definately had to use a 2" cobra hood... I hear some say it will fit a stock hood but I can't find how? Well the Windstar had 200hp and 240lbs of torque with a more restrictive exhaust and the only difference in motors is this manifold.

[One Bad Sixxx]

I wanted to bring this one back from the dead. This is such a great post. Was looking for this for a good time now.

I had some questions if ANYONE knew the answers.

A new hood had to be bought in order for good fitment. Now, I already have an aftermarket hood, the Stalker hood from Cervini's. Is that high enough to clear?

Also, how long did this take? Or how long WOULD this take? Morning to night-ish?

I see someone already posted some hp and tq numbers on how the windstar performed with this configuration. Wonder if anyone has the numbers on this being done to a stock mustang block. Seems like a sweet idea. May not be much of a difference, but still, some people like to squeeze every bit out of everything. =]

[Hiposilverandaway]

It's quite easy. Really about a day of fitment and fab if you have materials. You can make it with some mods done to the intake. I need a lil' more fabbing done to throttle to make it fit without touching. If you have a hood that is slightly higher than the stock, my setup will clear perfectly. I only need about 1/8" more to clear completly.
I am going to put my setup on ebay soon unless I get a offer. I will include a picture.

[One Bad Sixxx]

Interesting. PMed. =]

[062stang]

any before and after numbers?

-umesh

[Hiposilverandaway]

Didn't have a chance to. I tested the stock but didn't have enough time on dyno to swap the intake. Tom Y. States that this is the best flowing factory intake for the split port. I should have taken his advice and kept it but, I accidently posted it on ebay before He notified me. I wish I could retract the sale.

[062stang]

just out bid everyone else, it'll be like paying yourself.

-umesh

[Buttnuttn8]

is there certain years of windstars intakes to look for?
i have a 99 looking into this swap but not sure what year windstar intake to look for
thanks

[_J_]

Originally Posted by Hiposilverandaway

Didn't have a chance to. I tested the stock but didn't have enough time on dyno to swap the intake. Tom Y. States that this is the best flowing factory intake for the split port. I should have taken his advice and kept it but, I accidently posted it on ebay before He notified me. I wish I could retract the sale.

I don't think so... the 01+ windstar upper/lower will out flow the 97-98 windstar upper..
the 01+ upper is the closes to a box upper you'll find ...

I'll say it only once more .. if flow is what you are looking for and you like
to use the windstar intake .. use that money to buy the 01+ upper/lower..
better than the one you just dump.. I got an extra 98 upper if you like to
start over with that thing.. but hell I'll have dyno numbers with the 98 upper vs the
stock style 99-04 mustang upper soon..

[Hiposilverandaway]

Hold on to that one J. I will get that from you after I move.

[_J_]

Originally Posted by Hiposilverandaway

Hold on to that one J. I will get that from you after I move.

no prob.. I got tons of stuff stored up.. got two sets of F150 upper's
two set of 97-98 windstar upper, one set of 01+ windstar upper/lower,
5 diff. types of TB .. lots of junk lol .. but I'll be using the best combo
when all said and done.. for now i got to get all the data I can on the
stock style upper .. doing 2x better than expected so far..

[_J_]

BTW I just remember I sold one of my F150 upper to someone .. its the
Gaston mod. one .. I got the later model version left..

[97badass]

just out of curiositys sake could this possibly be a new sticky??

[_J_]

No .. IMO this should be move to the tech Archive area…